Mistake #1: Ignoring Grain
Hair doesn’t just grow “out” from the body, it grows in a particular direction — which is called the grain. To determine the grain, let the hair grow for a day or so then gently rub the area from different directions. Some directions will feel rougher and some smoother. The smoothest direction is the hair’s grain for that area of your face. You may find the grain changing direction on different areas of the skin, so it is useful to make a map of the area (at least mentally) and note the patterns.
Why is this important? Think of shaving not so much as eliminating hair but rather reducing hair (hey, it’s going to grow back!). You want to make the “bulk” reduction known as shaving as comfortable as possible, avoiding irritation and nicks. The best way to do that is by initially shaving with the grain. If you want a closer shave, re-lather and shave across the grain (at a direction 90 degrees away from the grain). Closer still? Re-lather and shave across the grain from the opposite direction. Some people can shave against the grain, but it should only be attempted after at least a pass with the grain, and I recommend a cross-grain pass before as well.
By the way, if you are using a single-blade razor (an “old school” double-edge, single-edge, or straight razor), you may be able to cheat a little and not follow every twist and turn but instead shave in the predominant direction your hair grows. But if you are using a multi-blade cartridge razor, you need to be following the grain more closely.
Mistake #2: Incorrect Blade Angle
Shaving with the blade at too steep of an angle is another frequent cause of irritation and nicks. This is actually two different issues.
If you’re making the transition from a cartridge razor to a double-edge there’s a tendency to hold the razor the same way. However, that is usually too steep of an angle. Hold the razor so that its top cap is resting on your face, then rock the handle down until the blade edge is just touching the skin. Some advocate learning the correct angle by shaving in a silent bathroom (no radio, running water, or other distractions) and listening to the sound of the stubble being cut to “tune in” the correct blade angle.
On the other hand, if you are using a cartridge razor, you are locked into a specific angle set by the manufacturer. Unfortunately it is some engineer’s guess (or maybe some marketer’s guess) of what the average angle should be for most people. The problem is, you are not most people. You are you. What works for one person may not work for another. A few years ago a certain four-blade razor was set to a notoriously steep angle; it may have been great for television commercials but countless faces suffered for it. If you are going to stick with a cartridge razor, spend some time to find the one that works best for you.
Mistake #3: Repeating Strokes
Related to shaving over unlubricated skin is the tendency to repeat strokes — that is, going over the same spot again and again at the same time. It is a habit many people pick up, but it’s a sure-fire way to get razor burn. New shavers should make a conscious effort to make their shaving “efficient” — mindful strokes that only slightly overlap. Remember, you are trying to reduce the hair, not get rid of it all at once. If you miss a spot, you can re-lather and catch it on the next pass.
Paying attention to correcting these common mistakes will reduce the chances of irritation and increase your enjoyment of shaving.
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