How to Care for Suede and Make It Last
As previously alluded to, suede isn’t as delicate as you may think. Scratches can be buffed away, and a little bit of water or dirt isn’t going to permanently ruin your shoes.
But, it does need to be cared for and maintained, just as your other leathers do, albeit with a different process and set of products. The bristles in the brush in your standard leather care kit are usually a bit large to be working on suede, and you definitely don’t want to be using any polish/cream on the material, nor a wet cloth.
So first, get yourself a suede care kit. Any suede-specific kit will come with a small brush (and sometimes a second brush specifically for maintaining the nap) as well as what’s called a suede eraser (or sometimes suede block). It’s basically a large rubber eraser that removes scuffs. And depending on the kit, you may also get a leather protector in the form of a clear spray.
As soon as you crack open your new suede shoes or belt, give it a spray with the protectant.
From there, use the following routine — once a month or so for irregular use; every 1-2 weeks with regular all-day wear — to regularly care for your suede and make sure that it lasts for years to come:
1. Brush
Use the bristle brush to clean off any dirt, sediment, etc. Don’t press too hard and scuff the material — it’s more like the pressure of brushing your teeth than washing dishes. You also want to brush in a single direction to keep the nap uniform.
When you brush, it does appear to change the color some, but that’s just the nap fluctuating (just like what happens when you run your hand over a suede or velvety couch).
2. Erase
If there are specific spots or any stains on the material that didn’t come out with the first brushing, use the eraser to gently scrub them off. Again, use a light pressure. The eraser works great for nearly any stain that isn’t grease (more on that below) as well as scuffs and small scratches.
Grease Stains
One thing that can truly muck up any material — suede included — is grease. One little spot can really ruin the uniform look of a shoe or accessory. With this particular type of stain, there’s one product that does near-miraculous wonders: cornstarch.
Apply a small pile to the stain (be liberal here), allow at least 15 minutes for the cornstarch to sit and absorb the grease (up to an hour or so), and then brush away with your suede brush. One application may very well remove the stain completely. If not, apply cornstarch again and repeat the process until the stain is gone. Give the area a scrub with the eraser, then give it a final brush to fully remove any residue and restore the nap.
Don’t try to use other grease-fighting agents, like dish soap, as they can ruin the material.
Bonus #1: cornstarch can also be used effectively even on old and seemingly set-in stains (though it’s not a guarantee of course).
Bonus #2: cornstarch can be used on any material to remove grease. No more relegating stained shirts to the rag pile.
3. Brush Again
Before and after. On the left you can see a couple small scuffs and the nap is not uniform, giving it sort of a splotched look. After brushing and erasing, on the right, you can see the scuffs are gone and the nap is nice and uniform, giving the shoe a polished look. On the floor you’ll notice the residue/sediment that gets brushed off; it really does make a difference and keeps the material clean.
After you’ve used your eraser, brush the suede once again, in a uniform direction. If your kit comes with a second brush (often called a “crepe” brush), use it here.
4. Spray
Apply a clear protectant by holding the item about arm’s length away and giving it a good spray all over. The material will probably change color some, but don’t worry at all, that will go away.
If your suede gets wet, don’t fret. If it’s just a little bit, let it dry, then give it a brushing. If it got quite wet or muddy, dab it dry with a paper towel, let it dry, and give it a clean. If you’ve been regularly applying the spray, you don’t have much to worry about.
If you do end up with a stain of any kind that you can’t get out yourself with either a brush or eraser (or cornstarch), look for a dry cleaner in your area that does leather/suede.
Again, while suede is not a delicate fabric per se, it is more prone to damage. So you might as well not take chances with how you wear it. In general, do yourself a favor and just don’t put on the suede boots if the forecast calls for inclement weather, or if your agenda calls for a muddy adventure.
If you do that, and follow the maintenance routine described above, your suede products will find years of enjoyable use.
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